Description:
- The Red Bellied Parrot is similar in shape and a slightly larger than the Senegal Parrot, averaging
(8.5 - 10) inches in length and usually reach maturity at 12 months of age.
- They have wide eye rings and red irises, black bills and dark gray feet.
- Their wings, heads and backs are greyish-brown. The lower back has a blue tinge, although it is
predominantly yellow-green.
- The breasts, under-wing coverts, and cheeks are washed with orange. The under-wing coverts and thighs
are aqua green.
- Red-bellied Parrots are also known as Red-bellied Conures or Abessinian Parrots (Poicephalus rufiventris)
are originally from East Africa, specifically Central Ethiopia.
- They are endangered in their natural habitat; however they are gaining popularity in the pet trade.
Traits:
- Red-bellied parrots are more social and talk better than any other Poicephalus parrots. These birds are
best described as being the life of the party. They are spunky and active birds that like to jabber and show
off.
- Red-bellied parrots have the comical, playful and animated personality of larger parrots, but without the
cost, mess or noise typically associated with the larger parrots. They are energetic and love to socialize,
are generally inquisitive, sweet, with great personalities who are easily tamed and trained.
Grooming/Health:
- Mist your bird with chlorine-free, lukewarm water regularly with a spray bottle, or you can provide
a dish for bathing but remove the water dish after your bird has finished bathing.
- Clipping flight feathers is not necessary, but when done correctly it can help prevent injury or escape.
- Nails and wing clips should be trimmed by a qualified person to prevent injury to the bird.
Diet:
- Some breeders favor a diet that contains a good amount of pellets; while others prefer staying as close to
their natural diet as possible, which is why relevant research is so valuable.
- Most experts in this area recommend that their diet should consist of a quality small parrot mix,
supplemented with various fruits, green foods, millet spray, and occasionally some mealworms or other
forms of protein.
- A no waste diet is highly recommended and should consist of 60–70% of the diet. I use very little
seeds as they are higher in fat and less nutritious.
- Provide fresh fruits and vegetables daily, such as grapes, bananas, cantaloupe, broccoli and carrots.
Discard uneaten portions of food after 6 hours.
- Always provide fresh chlorine-free water and change at least twice daily as birds like to dunk their
food while they are eating. I do not recommend water bottles for this reason.
- NEVER feed your birds fruit seeds, avocados, chocolate, alcohol or caffeine as these can be
deadly or cause serious medical problems.
- In their natural habitat, the Poicephalus Parrots eat a variety of seeds (including sprouted) as well as
myriad fruit, plants, greens, blossoms, grain, nuts and even insects.
- A cuttlebone, mineral block, gravel and oyster shell can be provided to provide the necessary calcium &
minerals
Housing:
- Birds acclimate well to average household temperatures but always be cautious of extreme temperature
changes.
- The cage should not be placed on the floor. Place the cage in an area that is well-lit and away from drafts.
- A cage approximately 24" W x 24" D x 36" H, with metal bars spaced no greater than 3/4" apart, makes
a good home for your parrot. As a rule, it is best to provide the largest habitat possible.
- Perches should be at least 9" long and ½" in diameter. Provide a variety of perches with different textures
to exercise their feet and will also help to prevent arthritis.
- Purchase a cage that has a metal grate over the droppings tray. This will keep the bird away from
droppings. I place a newspaper in the bottom of the "poop pan" for easier cleaning. Do not place food
or water bowls under perches.
- Ensure that there are no cage parts or toys made with lead, zinc or lead and lead-based paints or
galvanized parts as these cause serious medical issues if ingested by your bird and can lead to death.
Breeding in captivity:
- Red Belly parrots commonly breed at about 3 to 4 years of age. The Red Bellied like most of the
Poicephalus species breeds in our winter months and normally lay 4 eggs; one every other day.
- Incubation is carried out by the hen and lasts for about 27 to 28 days dependent on the temperature.
- Incubation usually begins after the 2nd egg has been laid. I use a cockatiel size nest box filled with
- Breeding Poicephalus Parrots in captivity presents several challenges and is, therefore, best left to the more
experienced breeders. These parrots are often nervous and may show aggression towards their mates and
other birds - particularly during the breeding season. They tend to be erratic breeders.
- This being said, some pairs present few problems. Breeding successes and challenges are likely linked to
the level of experience of the breeder birds, their level of bonding and compatibility, as well as their general
health and contentment with respect to their environment and care they are given.
Introducing / Pairing up Breeder Birds:
- The process of pairing up breeder birds is a very delicate one. New breeder birds need to be introduced to
each other very carefully, and this initially requires constant observation and patience. Poicephalus
- Parrots are likely to be aggressive towards newcomers potentially resulting in severe injury or even death.
These parrots have to be gradually introduced to each other. Initially it's best to keep both birds in their
own cages, but side-by-side and where they can see each other. Once they get used to each other, you may
observe them sitting as close to each other as possible (but still in their own cages, obviously).
- Once they appear to be comfortable with each other, the caretaker then places them together in another
NEUTRAL cage (a cage that neither one has previously regarded as his or her territory). Once they are
together in one cage, it is important to observe them very carefully for any signs of aggression. When signs
of bonding are apparent, such as mutual preening and one parrot feeding the other, the pair can then be
placed into their new breeding cage or aviary.
- Even after they have been placed into their permanent home, careful observation has to be maintained to
monitor for signs of aggression - especially in the beginning. If aggression occurs at any stage the birds need
to be separated.
Nestbox Information:
- These birds require more privacy than most other parrot species to breed successfully. The nest box
should be at the highest possible point in the cage or aviary, and the entrance hole should be in a shaded
or dark position. Light should not be able to enter the nest box.
- Nest boxes are best positioned so that nest inspection can be carried out from outside the aviary. Nest
inspections are best done when the adult birds are out of the nest for feeding.
- Some breeders are successful with vertical boxes, others with horizontal boxes. Again others provide
elaborate "L" shaped boxes or offer nest boxes that have tunnels with twists and turns.
- The nest box preferences are influenced by the size and type of nest-box or log in which the parents were
hatched and raised. Some use larger boxes and others smaller ones. In the wild, Poicephalus Parrots tend
to nest in the most unusual size and shaped nesting holes. So it's trial and error in some cases.
- Poicephalus Parrots are typically intolerant of nest inspections. If the set-up allows it, it's best to carry them
out from the outside and when the parents are out of the nest box to feed. Of course, this requires the
nest box to be positioned in a way that enables the breeder to inspect the nest box without entering the
aviary or flight. A "reverse" nest box works well for that purpose -- one which can be attached to the outside
of a cage or aviary with an opening through the aviary to allow the breeders to get into the box. A
removable top or lift-off lid or a side-door to provide useful access points for inspections as well as for
cleaning are also necessary.
Sexing:
- In an adult, the cock has a orange belly, the hen has a green one. Young birds of both sexes have an
orange wash to the belly. But an experienced breeder of these birds will be able to sex them for you.
Prices:
- Red Bellied Parrots are usually very reasonable priced between $400 to $500, depending on source,
availability and location.
Thank you for reading this Bio. If you are interested
in getting a Red Bellied Parrot, please email me for availability.
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